Places • 28 May, 2025
Follow the Rabbit: Walks through non-touristy Tbilisi
Tbilisi is a city of contrasts, filled not only with well-known attractions but also with locations that spark genuine interest even among those who consider themselves experts on the city. Ancient churches, cozy cafés in atmospheric courtyards, and unique art spaces hide in the shadows of standard tourist routes. We invite you to take a stroll through the lesser-known Tbilisi – a place where past and present intertwine in a captivating mosaic.
Gardenia Shevardnadze Café-Garden
There is a place in Tbilisi that can be compared to the Garden of Eden – Zurab Shevardnadze’s Gardenia. The garden’s story began in 2000 when its founder was an intern at the Botanical Garden while studying biology at Tbilisi State University. During his internship, Mr. Shevardnadze met guests from Germany – Andreas Gregory, Director of the Munich Botanical Garden, and Wolfram Lobin, Director of the Bonn Botanical Garden. These connections led him to internships in Bonn, later in Munich and Frankfurt.
In 2005, Zurab returned home with the idea of making his city greener and planned to create a garden. After purchasing an abandoned plot on the city outskirts, he began transforming the wasteland into a beautiful relaxation spot.
The garden’s unusual flowerbeds – made from old shoes and clay pots – and other decorative elements crafted from household items are all products of Zurab’s imagination. Visitors particularly note the peaceful, almost homelike atmosphere and the vast array of blooming plants.
Originally, Zurab only intended to create a garden, but over time a café and small hotel also appeared.
Little Café
A small café opened in Gardenia five years after the garden launched. Here you can taste natural Gurian tea grown on a small local plantation, and even bake cupcakes and dumplings using the Shevardnadze family’s recipes.
Villa Gardenia
The Villa Gardenia apart-hotel offers six uniquely decorated rooms. Each is furnished with cozy and comfortable antique furniture. Breakfast is served in the garden café. The rooms are often used for photo shoots – and you can take a few retro-style pictures yourself.
Visitor Services
On the grounds of Gardenia, there is a flower shop where amateur gardeners can buy seeds of their favorite plants. A floral workshop is also available for ordering event bouquets or venue décor. For those looking to landscape their garden or courtyard, there’s a landscape architecture bureau – where experienced designers will draft a layout and planting plan, and the team will bring it to life. Address: 138 Nikoloz Khudadovi Street, Tbilisi Contact number: 032 224 67 03 Fabrika Fabrika is a unique art space, opened in 2016 on the grounds of an old sewing factory. Construction of the Fabrika building began in the late 19th century. After the revolution, it was nationalized by the Soviet government and turned into a major factory. Today, we witness how the aesthetics of Soviet architecture have been skillfully modernized by creative minds. Four building blocks were joined to form a cozy courtyard known as the Heart of Fabrika. This space has become the hub for many events – in the summer of 2023 alone, it hosted a wine festival, a concert by the band Splean, a storytelling festival, Oto Tsagareishvili’s painting exhibition “See Through,” and the craft market Awesome Ukraine. A hostel is located directly within the Fabrika premises – another harmonious blend of old and new. The floor is covered with linoleum, and remnants of industrial structures are visible throughout. The hostel rooms are spacious, cozy, and stylish. Travelers can choose from three options: a bed in the hostel, a private room, or even full apartments. Fabrika also offers a modern and creatively styled co-working space: an interesting design, high ceilings, and elements of Soviet aesthetics make it a unique spot for work and inspiration. You’ll also find intriguing shops here, such as the designer studio Flying Painter with exclusive clothing and conceptual sketches in each design. There’s also the Ceramic Studio pottery workshop, where you can watch pottery being made and buy items as gifts. Address: 8 Ivane Ninoshvili Avenue, Tbilisi Writers’ House The Writers’ House of Georgia is a place worth visiting for inspiration. Located in the old, magnificent Sarajishvili mansion at 13 Machabeli Street, it captivates with its incredible interior. Marble, wood, murals… And on the veranda floor is an exquisite mosaic, crafted only twice – once for the Sarajishvili house, and once for the Titanic. The mansion was built in 1905 by David Sarajishvili – founder of Georgia’s first cognac factory, public figure, and philanthropist. It soon became the city’s cultural center and gathering place for the elite, hosting such figures as Gigo Gabashvili, Paolo Iashvili, Titsian Tabidze, Mikheil Javakhishvili, Galaktion Tabidze, and Konstantine Gamsakhurdia. After the revolution, it was turned into the Writers’ House, where guests included Maxim Gorky, Sergei Yesenin, Vladimir Mayakovsky, Mikhail Bulgakov, and Osip Mandelstam, who lived in one of the rooms for a while. Today, literary evenings, art exhibitions, and book presentations are held here. In summer (which in Tbilisi lasts from March to October), the Littera café operates in a courtyard surrounded by stone walls and tall trees, where you can order a glass of fine wine and attend a literary gathering. Writers, translators, artists, and other guests can stay in rooms that once hosted famous international visitors. Each room is named after a writer who devoted works to Georgia: Alexandre Dumas, Nizami Ganjavi, Boris Pasternak, Marjory and Oliver Wardrop, John Steinbeck. Address: 13 Ivane Machabeli Street, Tbilisi Contact number: +995 32 297 41 04 Deserter Market The Deserter Market is a place where you’ll find everything: from spices, honey, cheese, and wine to dishes, souvenirs, and even branded clothing. It’s conveniently located near the city center and the railway station. Whether you’re stocking up on tasty souvenirs before departure or simply want to enjoy the flavors and aromas of a Georgian market, this is the place. The market’s name dates back to the civil war era, when deserter soldiers sold their gear here. In the 1990s, leftovers from Soviet military warehouses were sold. Today, locals prefer to call it the Borjomi Market, Central Market, or “Bazroba,” and they know that if you need a rare item, this is where you’ll find it. Locals advise visiting in the morning and not buying anything at the entrance – go inside, compare prices, and then make your choice. Also, don’t come hungry: the mouthwatering smells and vibrant stalls are sure to lead to spontaneous purchases. One more tip – bargaining is a must here, as it’s an essential feature of eastern marketplaces. Address: 5 Abastumani Street, Tbilisi Nearest metro station: “Station Square” 
